ZHAO Hongjun, SONG Zhiyao, LI Ling, KONG Jun. On the Fourier approximation method for steady water waves[J]. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 2014, 33(5): 37-47. doi: 10.1007/s13131-014-0470-1
Citation: ZHAO Hongjun, SONG Zhiyao, LI Ling, KONG Jun. On the Fourier approximation method for steady water waves[J]. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 2014, 33(5): 37-47. doi: 10.1007/s13131-014-0470-1

On the Fourier approximation method for steady water waves

doi: 10.1007/s13131-014-0470-1
  • Received Date: 2013-05-10
  • Rev Recd Date: 2013-10-18
  • A computational method for steady water waves is presented on the basis of potential theory in the physical plane with spatial variables as independent quantities. The finite Fourier series are applied to approximating the free surface and potential function. A set of nonlinear algebraic equations for the Fourier coefficients are derived from the free surface kinetic and dynamic boundary conditions. These algebraic equations are numerically solved through Newton's iterative method, and the iterative stability is further improved by a relaxation technology. The integral properties of steady water waves are numerically analyzed, showing that (1) the set-up and the set-down are both non-monotonic quantities with the wave steepness, and (2) the Fourier spectrum of the free surface is broader than that of the potential function. The latter further leads us to explore a modification for the present method by approximating the free surface and potential function through different Fourier series, with the truncation of the former higher than that of the latter. Numerical tests show that this modification is effective, and can notably reduce the errors of the free surface boundary conditions.
  • loading
  • Chaplin J R. 1980. Developments of stream-function wave theory. Coastal Eng, 3: 179-205
    Chappelear J E. 1961. Direct numerical calculation of wave properties. J Geophys Res, 66(2): 501-508
    Clamond D. 1999. Steady finite-amplitude waves on a horizontal seabed of arbitrary depth. J Fluid Mech, 398: 45-60
    Clamond D. 2003. Cnoidal-type surface waves in deep water. J Fluid Mech, 489: 101-120
    Cokelet E D. 1977. Steep gravity waves in water of arbitrary uniform depth. Philos Trans R Soc London: Ser A, 286: 183-230
    Dalrymple R A, Solana P. 1986. Nonuniqueness in stream function wave theory. J Warway Port Coast and Oc Eng, 112(2): 333-337
    De S C. 1955. Contributions to the theory of Stokes waves. Proc Camb Phil Soc, 51: 713-736
    Dean R G. 1965. Stream function representation of nonlinear ocean waves. J Geophys Res, 70(18): 4561-4572
    Dean R G. 1968. Breaking wave criteria — A study employing a numerical wave theory. Proc 11th Conf Coast Eng. New Nork: ASCE, 108-123.
    Fenton J D. 1985. A fifth-order Stokes theory for steady waves. J Warway Port Coast and Oc Eng, 111(2): 216-234
    Fenton J D. 1988. The numerical solution of steady water wave problems. Computers & Geosciences, 14(3): 357-368
    Fenton J D. 1998. The cnoidal theory of water waves, in: Herbich, J B, Eds. Developments of Offshore Engineering, Houston: Gulf Professional Publishing, 1-34
    Isobe M, Nishimura H, Horikawa K. 1978. Expressions of perturbation solutions for conservative waves by using wave height. Proc 33rd Annu Conf of JSCE (in Japanese), 760-761.
    Reprinted in Horikawa K. 1988. Nearshore Dynamics and Coastal Processes, Tokyo: University of Tokyo Press, 28-29
    Jonsson I G, Arneborg L. 1995. Energy properties and shoaling of higher- order Stokes waves on a current. Ocean Eng, 22(8): 819-857
    Laitone E V. 1962. Limiting conditions for cnoidal and Stokes waves. J Geophys Res, 67(4): 1555-1564
    Le Méhauté B, Divoky D, Lin A. 1968. Shallow water waves — A comparison of theories and experiments. Proc 11th Conf Coast Eng. New Nork: ASCE, 86-107
    Liao Shijun, Cheung K. 2003. Homotopy analysis of nonlinear progressive waves in deep water. J Eng Math, 45(2): 105-116
    Longuet-Higgins M S. 1975. Integral properties of periodic gravity waves of finite amplitude. Proc R Soc, London: Ser A, 342(1629): 157-174
    Lukomsky V P, Gandzha I S. 2003. Fractional Fourier approximations for potential gravity waves on deep water. Nonlinear Proc Geoph, 10(6): 599-614
    Lukomsky V P, Gandzha I S, Lukomsky D V. 2002. Computational analysis of the almost-highest waves on deep water. Comput Phys Commun, 147: 548-551
    Lundgren H. 1963. Wave trust and wave energy level. Proc 10th Congr Int Assoc Hydraul Res. Delft: IAHR, 147-151
    Rienecker M M, Fenton J D. 1981. A Fourier approximation method for steady water waves. J Fluid Mech, 104: 119-137
    Schwartz L W. 1974. Computer extension and analytic continuation of Stokes' expansion for gravity waves. J Fluid Mech, 62: 553-578
    Skjelbreia L, Hendrickson J. 1960. Fifth order gravity wave theory. Proc 7th Conf Coast Eng. California: Council on Wave Res, The Eng Found, 184-196
    Song Zhiyao, Zhao Hongjun, Li Ling, et al. 2013. On the universal third order Stokes wave solution. Sci China: Earth Sci, 56(1): 102-114
    Stokes G G. 1847. On the theory of oscillation waves. Trans Camb Phil Soc, 8: 441-455
    Stokes G G. 1880. Appendices and supplement to a paper on the theory of oscillation waves. Mathematical and Physical Papers, Vol. 1. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press, 314-326
    Tanaka M. 1983. The stability of steep gravity waves. J Phys Soc Japan, 52(9): 3047-3055
    Tao Longbin, Song Hao, Chakrabarti S. 2007. Nonlinear progressive waves in water of finite depth—An analytic approximation. Coastal Eng, 54: 825-834
    Tsuchiya Y, Yasuda T. 1981. A new approach to Stokes wave theory. Bull Disast Prev Res Inst, 31(1): 17-34
  • 加载中

Catalog

    通讯作者: 陈斌, bchen63@163.com
    • 1. 

      沈阳化工大学材料科学与工程学院 沈阳 110142

    1. 本站搜索
    2. 百度学术搜索
    3. 万方数据库搜索
    4. CNKI搜索

    Article Metrics

    Article views (1707) PDF downloads(1458) Cited by()
    Proportional views
    Related

    /

    DownLoad:  Full-Size Img  PowerPoint
    Return
    Return