Modelling of sediment movement in the surf and swash zones

TOKPOHOZIN N. B.; KOUNOUHEWA B.; AVOSSEVOU G. Y. H.; HOUEKPOHEHAM A.; AWANOU C. N.

doi:10.1007/s13131-015-0610-2

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Article Navigation > Acta Oceanologica Sinica > 2015 > 34(2): 137-142

TOKPOHOZIN N. B., KOUNOUHEWA B., AVOSSEVOU G. Y. H., HOUEKPOHEHAM A., AWANOU C. N.. Modelling of sediment movement in the surf and swash zones[J]. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 2015, 34(2): 137-142. doi: 10.1007/s13131-015-0610-2

Citation:

TOKPOHOZIN N. B., KOUNOUHEWA B., AVOSSEVOU G. Y. H., HOUEKPOHEHAM A., AWANOU C. N.. Modelling of sediment movement in the surf and swash zones[J]. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 2015, 34(2): 137-142. doi: 10.1007/s13131-015-0610-2

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Modelling of sediment movement in the surf and swash zones

doi: 10.1007/s13131-015-0610-2

1.
Institut de Mathématiques et de Sciences Physiques (IMSP/UAC), Porto-Novo Rép01BP 613, du Bénin;Centre Béninois de la Recherche Scientifique et Technique (CBRST), Cotonou Rép 03BP 1665, du Bénin
2.
Centre Béninois de la Recherche Scientifique et Technique (CBRST), Cotonou Rép 03BP 1665, du Bénin;Laboratoire de Physique du Rayonnement (LPR/FAST-UAC), Cotonou Rép 01BP 526, du Bénin
3.
Institut de Mathématiques et de Sciences Physiques (IMSP/UAC), Porto-Novo Rép01BP 613, du Bénin
4.
Laboratoire de Physique du Rayonnement (LPR/FAST-UAC), Cotonou Rép 01BP 526, du Bénin

Received Date: 2014-08-06
Rev Recd Date: 2014-10-21

Abstract

Abstract

Under the action of marine currents, non-cohesive sediments evolve by bed-load, by saltation or suspension depending on their granulometry. Several authors have considered that the movement of sediment is bidimensional and modelized the effects of swell by a constant velocitynear the seabed. Here we have studied the velocity profile of fluctuating currents near the seabed and studied the movement of sediment in 3D. The results show that in the areas of study (surf and swash) the movement of sediment occurs in a volume, and the evolution of sediment varies from an areato another. The obtained theoretical profiles of the position and velocity vectors confirm the observations of several authors.
- non-cohesive sediments,
- sediment dynamics,
- swell,
- trajectory of sediment,
- velocity drive

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References(14)

References

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