A new statistical model of wave heights based on the concept of wave breaking critical zone

YANG Jiaxuan; LI Xunqiang; ZHU Shouxian; ZHANG Wenjing; WANG Lei

doi:10.1007/s13131-015-0670-3

Article Contents

Article Navigation > Acta Oceanologica Sinica > 2015 > 34(5): 81-85

YANG Jiaxuan, LI Xunqiang, ZHU Shouxian, ZHANG Wenjing, WANG Lei. A new statistical model of wave heights based on the concept of wave breaking critical zone[J]. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 2015, 34(5): 81-85. doi: 10.1007/s13131-015-0670-3

Citation:

YANG Jiaxuan, LI Xunqiang, ZHU Shouxian, ZHANG Wenjing, WANG Lei. A new statistical model of wave heights based on the concept of wave breaking critical zone[J]. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 2015, 34(5): 81-85. doi: 10.1007/s13131-015-0670-3

Citation:

PDF( 4265 KB)

A new statistical model of wave heights based on the concept of wave breaking critical zone

doi: 10.1007/s13131-015-0670-3

1.
Institute of Noise and Vibration, Naval University of Engineering, Wuhan 430033, China;Institute of Meteorology and Marine, PLA University of Science and Technology, Nanjing 210001, China;National Key Laboratory on Ship Vibration and Noise, Wuhan 430033, China
2.
Institute of Meteorology and Marine, PLA University of Science and Technology, Nanjing 210001, China
3.
College of Harbour, Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Hohai University, Nanjing 210098, China

Received Date: 2014-07-14
Rev Recd Date: 2014-11-18

Abstract

Abstract

When waves propagate from deep water to shallow water, wave heights and steepness increase and then waves roll back and break. This phenomenon is called surf. Currently, the present statistical calculation model of surf was derived mainly from the wave energy conservation equation and the linear wave dispersion relation, but it cannot reflect accurately the process which is a rapid increasing in wave height near the broken point. So, the concept of a surf breaking critical zone is presented. And the nearshore is divided as deep water zone, shallow water zone, surf breaking critical zone and after breaking zone. Besides, the calculation formula for the height of the surf breaking critical zone has founded based on flume experiments, thereby a new statistical calculation model on the surf has been established. Using the new model, the calculation error of wave height maximum is reduced from 17.62% to 6.43%.
- wave height,
- statistical model,
- surf breaking critical zone,
- flume experiments

FullText(HTML)

References(21)

References

Chen Qin. 2006. Fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type equations for waves and currents over porous beds. J Eng Mech, 132(2): 220-230

Chen Qin, Kirby J T, Dalrymple R A, et al. 2000. Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking, and runup. II: 2D. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 126(1): 48-56

Cui Cheng, Zhang Ningchuan, Kang Haigui, et al. 2013. An experimental and numerical study of the freak wave speed. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 32(5): 51-56

Dally W R, Dean R G, Dalrymple R A. 1985. Wave height variation across beaches of arbitrary profile. J Geophys Res, 90(C6): 11917-11927

Erduran K S, Ilic S, Kutija V. 2005. Hybrid finite-volume finite-differ-ence scheme for the solution of Boussinesq equations. Interna-tional Journal for Numerical Methods in Fluids, 49(11): 1213-1232

Goda Y. 1970. Estimation of the rate of irregular wave overtopping of seawalls. Rept Port Harbour Res Inst, 9(4): 3-41

Goda Y. 1975. Irregular wave deformation in the surf zone. Coastal Eng Jpn, 18: 13-26

Hansen J B, Svendsen I A. 1979. Regular Waves in Shoaling Water: Ex-perimental Data. Denmark: Institute of Hydrodynamics and Hydraulic Engineering, Technical University of Denmark

Kim D H, Lynett P J, Socolofsky S A. 2009. A depth-integrated model for weakly dispersive, turbulent, and rotational fluid flows. Ocean Model, 27(3-4): 198-214

Komar, P D, Gaughan M K. 1972. Airy wave theory and breaker height prediction. Proceedings of Coastal Engineering Conference, 20(1): 405-418

Liang Qiuhua, Marche F. 2009. Numerical resolution of well-bal-anced shallow water equations with complex source terms. Adv Water Res, 32(6): 873-884

Masch F D. 1964. Conidial waves in shallow water. Coastal Engineer-ing, 9(1): 1-22

Roeber V, Cheung K F, Kobayashi M H. 2010. Shock-capturing Boussinesq-type model for nearshore wave processes. Coast Eng, 57(4): 407-423

Shi Fengyan, Kirby J T, Harris C H, et al. 2012. A high-order adaptive time-stepping TVD solver for Boussinesq modeling of breaking waves and coastal inundation. Ocean Modelling, 43-44: 36-51

Shi Fengyan, Kirby J T, Tehranirad B, et al. 2011. FUNWAVE-TVD, documentation and users' manual. Research Report, CACR-11-03.

Newark, Delaware: University of Delaware Sunamura T. 1983. Determination of breaker height and depth in the field. Ann Rep, Inst Geosci, Univ Tsukuba, 8: 53-54

Tonelli M, Petti M. 2010. Finite volume scheme for the solution of 2D extended Boussinesq equations in the surf zone. Ocean Eng, 37(7): 567-582

Weggel J R. 1972. Maximum breaker height for design. Proceeding of Coastal Engineering Conference, 21(1): 419-432

Wen Shengchang, Yu Zhouwen. 1984. Wave Theory and Calculation Principle (in Chinese). Beijing: China Science Press, 544-552

You Tao. 2004. Study of the Wave Transformation and Breaking on the Slope and Longshore Currents (in Chinese). Tianjin: Tianjin University Press, 21-32

Zhao Jian, Chen Xueen, Xu Jiangling, et al. 2013. Assimilation of sur-face currents into a regional model over Qingdao coastal wa-ters of China. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 32(7): 21-28

Relative Articles

Supplements(0)

Cited By

Proportional views