Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in shallow water

Wen Shengchang(S. C. Wen); Guo Peifang; Zhang Dacuo; Chen Bohai

Volume 7 Issue 3

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Article Navigation > Acta Oceanologica Sinica > 1988 > (3): 325-343

DOU ZHENXING, LUO YUANQUAN, HUANG KEXIN, ZHANG CUNZHI, CAI GUANGXING. NUMERICAL MODELLING OF POLLUTANT DISPERSION BY TIDAL CURRENT IN THE BOHAI SEA[J]. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 1983, (1): 12-21.

Citation:

Wen Shengchang(S. C. Wen), Guo Peifang, Zhang Dacuo, Chen Bohai. Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in shallow water[J]. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 1988, (3): 325-343.

DOU ZHENXING, LUO YUANQUAN, HUANG KEXIN, ZHANG CUNZHI, CAI GUANGXING. NUMERICAL MODELLING OF POLLUTANT DISPERSION BY TIDAL CURRENT IN THE BOHAI SEA[J]. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 1983, (1): 12-21.

Citation:

Wen Shengchang(S. C. Wen), Guo Peifang, Zhang Dacuo, Chen Bohai. Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in shallow water[J]. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 1988, (3): 325-343.

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Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in shallow water

Institute of Physical Oceanography, Shandong College of Oceanography, Qingdao, China

Received Date: 1987-09-10
Rev Recd Date: 1987-11-20

Abstract

Abstract

The method developed by Wen et al. (1988a) for deriving theoretical wind wave frequency spectrum in deep water is extended to the case of water of finite depth, in which a parameter η=H/d is introduced, where H and d represent the average wave height and water depth respectively. The derived spectra reduce to those in deep water when η=0. The case of η=1/2 corresponds to waves impending to break because of the effect of the bottom. Simplified forms of spectra are given. The theoretical results agree with the observed spectra well.